From the food on our plates to the makeup in our palettes, conscious consumerism has expanded over the last few years, with more people than ever feeling motivated to lead a more sustainable, ethical lifestyle. As part of this, veganism has also become increasingly popular.
This can mean different things depending on the individual: one person might decide to eat a plant-based diet, while someone else might also avoid the use of skincare products using ingredients which are derived from animals. Below, we list some of the benefits of vegan skincare:
Behind the Label
“Vegan” products are free from byproducts or derivatives of animals, such as gelatin (from the bodies of pigs and cows) or allantoin (derived from cow urine). Our current favorite vegan alternatives come from YukaFace Vegan Skincare, who also offer a beautiful range of cosmetic products without the unpleasant additives. Since it can be easy to confuse this with some other terms you might also see on skincare packaging, we’ve put together a quick glossary, so you know how to spot the difference:
- Cruelty-free: Not tested on animals (a cheaper, yet inhumane and unethical form of testing).
- Natural: Partly or completely made from natural ingredients (look for a percentage on the label).
- Clean: Products that are free from toxic ingredients (either chemical or naturally derived).
- Organic: Partly or completely made using organically-farmed, sustainable ingredients.
- Fair Trade: Made using ingredients bought at a fair price, under fair working conditions.
It’s important to note that because a product states it is vegan or organic, it doesn’t always mean that it’s cruelty-free. For example, a product that is made from plant-derived ingredients might also be animal tested.
Additionally, because a product states it is “natural”, it might not be better for you: for example mechanical exfoliants such as apricot stone kernels are much harsher on the skin than liquid equivalents containing ingredients such as fruit acids to help slough away dead skin cells.
Steer Clear of Greenwashing
While more people are trying to use their skincare in a more conscientious, eco-friendly way, some companies have unfortunately taken advantage of this, using “greenwashing” jargon to convince consumers into buying their products. One way to check the true authenticity of vegan or cruelty-free products is to research their production processes for transparency.
A quicker (and less involved) method is to simply check the label for third party certification, which means the product has been approved by organizations such as Leaping Bunny, The Vegan Society, Fair Trade or the Soil Association. When you do this, make sure they are official logos, as misleading labels featuring imitation leaping bunnies are sadly not uncommon.
Are Animal Derived Ingredients Better?
Similarly to meat-eating, the use of animal by-products (or “zooceuticals”) in skincare has a long and complex history, yet the production processes used in sourcing them are rarely ethical or sustainable. One example is bee pollen, a skincare ingredient known for its hydrating, antioxidant and anti-aging properties.
While collecting bee pollen sounds relatively harmless, the realities are far more cruel: human bee pollen collection involves the use of wire mesh placed at the entrance to the hive to strip pollen from the legs of bees, and in some cases, tearing off their legs and wings.
It’s a practice that seems cruel and unethical, especially given what we now know about the intelligence and emotional range of bees and their relatively short lifespan. A good alternative instead is to use unrefined organic shea butter, which has similar skin-conditioning qualities.
Vegan Alternatives
Some plant-based ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (sourced via microbial fermentation, rather than from rooster combs) are not only more common than their animal-derived counterparts; they’re actually just as effective. In other cases, plant-based alternatives to some popular skincare ingredients, while less dramatically effective, are much gentler on sensitive skin. Many plant-based ingredients are also rich in skin-boosting natural antioxidants, minerals and vitamins, minus the irritation and the cruelty.
One example of this is salicylic acid: while this can be a highly effective ingredient for treating acne, some find it can cause dryness and irritation. Its alternative, willow bark extract, is a natural source of salicin, the compound from which salicylic is derived, and while results are unlikely to be as rapid as with salicylic acid, it’s a safer alternative for sensitive skins.
Kinder for You, Kinder to the Environment
Chemical use in skincare is a slightly controversial issue, in that even products labeled “natural” technically contain them. For instance, glycolic acid (a chemical exfoliant) is derived from fermented sugar cane. There are many valid reasons to avoid certain skincare actives.
In some cases, certain chemical ingredients may cause skin irritation, but more seriously, ingredients like retinol and hydroquinone are not recommended for those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, as these can be absorbed through the skin, potentially harming the baby.
A final thing to consider is the environment: while many chemical ingredients are absorbed into our skin, some end up in our oceans and landfills. Plant-based ingredients are easier to break down in the soil, while also causing less water pollution, so not only do they have a multitude of skin benefits; they’re also better for the environment.
